On Tuesday afternoon, following a short visit to the Naschmarkt (more on that later), we joined Johnathan and jumped on a train (the Weasel) to a town just south of Vienna called Baden (bawd'-un). Historically, the first record of Baden goes back to 50 a.d. when the Romans discovered a natural spring of "healthy water". It became a favorite "spa" site for royalty and the rich and remains. to this day, a popular resort. It also boasts the largest casino in Europe. I couldn't enter the casino as it was not open yet and I was not dressed formally enough (both things would NEVER keep anyone out of a Vegas casino).
Waiting on the Weasel
Our hosts were the family of Raphael Hackl, our Spike linebacker/strong safety. Raphie had played in Texas as a foreign exchange student and still flies an American flag at his house. A lifelong resident of Baden, Raphie gave us a short driving tour and then we met his mom, Johanna, for some coffee. After coffee, we went down a narrow street to an outdoor cafe, met some more family members and had a taste of the local wine. Following this relaxing stop, we went on a walking tour of the shops along the now-familiar narrow, cobblestone streets. More amazing sweets, chocolates, and sights.
We arrived at a beautiful area with an orchestra stage and a hill lined with shrubbery and places where flowers will soon be blooming. Up a winding path we made our way till we reached a "temple" dedicated to Ludwig von Beethoven. Beethoven spent much time in Baden, partly because of his various health problems, seeking relief from the medicinal properties of the baths. One of the highest points around the clear day allowed us to scan the entire area for miles. As the twilight descended, we stopped at yet another cafe to again sample some more refreshments. It became apparent that the people in Baden know how to relax, socialize, and enjoy each other's company.
Susan and I; from the Beethoven Memorial. Behind us is Baden, Austria.
Johnathan and Baden
Raphie Hackl (on the tackle!) and Me.
Composer, meet Nashville songwriter.
After the previously mentioned stop, we arrived at the restaurant owned by family members close to Raphie. In a building dating back to 1691, we were directed to a large corner booth where we would be joined by other friends, team member Mike Gratz, and family members. Everywhere we went, the Hackls were known and warm conversations always included our introduction. This friendly treatment has been afforded us in EVERY situation we have encountered on our trip. Soon, I plan to list the many acts of gracious kindness we have been lucky enough to enjoy. It will be a huge list.
I ran schnitzel consumption count up to 12 as I ordered for Susan and myself. It was an amazing traditional Austrian meal. I was enjoying my schnitzel when Raphie insisted that I try a bite of his meal. Knowing of what his meal consisted, I tried to politely resist. The meal, blutwurstel, is basically sausage made of blood. That's it. Blood. Yummy, right? After realizing that I wasn't going to avoid this encounter, I grudgingly tasted a morsel of it. I wish I could report that it changed my mind about eating blood and I will now be replacing schnitzel as my new favorite Austrian dish. Nope. Not happening. I appreciate the offer, but I can't get the idea out of my head. No more blood sausages for me. Now I have tried them.
The dining experience in Austria is somewhat foreign to the average American. They eat, and talk, and drink, and talk, and have desert, and talk, and laugh, and talk, and have more to drink, and, well you get the idea. Fast food is NOT the norm. People enjoy each other's company, discuss everything under the sun, and linger around the table for longer than this American is accustomed. It is something with we need to re-acquaint ourselves.
As the evening seemed to be coming to an end, we were invited to tour the family wine cellar. The family produces their own wine (which is AMAZING) from their own vineyards. We descended down a narrow stairway to a cellar built in 1691 (fyi: the FIRST settlement in American was Jamestown in 1607) We observed casks with aging wine, bottles stacked and waiting to be individually turned and cases of ready to serve wine. The darkness and close quarters took their toll on my claustrophobic nature and although I was greatly impressed with the wine cellar, I was glad to return to the ground floor (after a few pics).
In the wine cellar, circa. 1691 (the cellar, not me)
Another pic of the wine cellar
As the evening came to a close, precipitated by the fact that the last Weasel would be leaving town in a few minutes, we said our goodbyes after yet another Austrian tradition of ending the evening with a toast at the bar before leaving.
The night ended with a ride back to Vienna and a U Bahn trip to our stop. A night that was good in Baden.
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